Shoe and the manufacture thereof



1935; cs. sooou 1,986,723

SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Original Filed Feb. 29, 1932 l/EA/ TELL .nww

Patented Jan. '1, 1935' SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF George Goddu, deceased, late of Winchester, Mass, by Isabelle W. Goddn, executrlx, Wincheater, Mass assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson.

ration of New Jersey Original application February :9, 1932. Serial No.

N. 1., a corpo- 595,799. Divided and this a plication November 21, 1933, Serial No. 699,049

I Claims. (CL 12-142) This invention relates to improvements in shoes and methods of manufacturing shoes and is illustrated herein with respect to the manufacture of vwelted shoes having cement attached soles.

The invention comprises improvements which facilitate the obtaining of a closely trimmed edge in the manufacture of welted shoes. With this in view it is proposed to cement the weltto the overlasted portion of the shoe upper. The invention includes, therefore, improvements both in methods of manufacturing welt shoes characterized by the cementing of the welt to the shoe upper and in' shoes similarly characterized. The improved welting illustrated herein is not claimed in this application since it forms the subjectmatter of a copending application for Letters Patent of the United States, Serial No. 595,799, filed February 29, 1932, of which the present application is a division.

With the above and other objects and features in view the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawing and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an insole for use in manufacturing shoes in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale on the line 11-11 in Fig. 1, but before any reinforcing material has been applied to the insole;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line III-III of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view through the forepart of a shoe in the course of manufacture in accordance with my invention, showing the condition after the completion of the lasting operatlon;

Fig. 5 is a similar view after the completion of the welting operation;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view showing the tion of the shoe after the completion of the inseam trimming and inseam pressing or rolling operation;

Fig. 7 is a transverse section through a portion of the forepart of the finished shoe;

Fig. 8 is a transverse section through the forepart of a shoe illustrating a step in the cement attachment of a welt to the overlasted margin of the shoe upper;

Fig. 9 is a sectional and perspective view of the welting shown in Fig. 5; and

Fig. 10 illustrates welting with a portion of its upper engaging surface coated with cement for use in the practice of the method illustrated in construc- The insole 12, illustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, is made from a piece of leather stock of substan tially uniform thickness and has a lip 14 projecting, upwardly therefrom. As illustrated in Figs. 1 and 3, the portion of the insole inside of the lip, as well as the inner surface of the lip, is reinforced with apiece of duck 16 in the manner usual in the manufacture of Economy insoles. The insole is also provided with a shoulder 18, which, as best shown in Fig. 2, is continuous with the base of the lip 14 while the edge 20 of the insole is of the full thickness of the original stock. This construction may be produced by removing from the peripheral portion of the upper face of the insole a piece of stock triangular in cross section (indicated bythe space below the dotted line 19 in Fig. 2), the apex of the triangle lying at the comer formed by the intersection of the edge surface 20 and the, upper surface 21 of the insole, its base extending heightwise of the insole, about $4 of an inch or thereabouts from the edge of the insole, and its hypotenuse being inclined from its apex into thesubstance of the insole and intersecting its base about half way through the insole. The lip 14 is produced by cutting an inside channel in the usual way, with the bottom of the channel spaced from the shoulder 18 sufliciently to leave the necessary between-substance for the reception of the stitches of the inseam. The channel flap is then turned up, as illustrated in Fig. 2, and the reinforcing duck 16 applied in well-known fashion.

It.may be noted here that in construing this specification and the accompanying claims such words as up", upper, down, "raising, etc. where applied to the insole and its parts are to be understood as applied to the parts when the insole is in the position it assumes when a shoe in which it is embodiedis positioned bottom upwardly.

The insole12 is tacked to a last 22 and the shoe upper assembled and lasted as in the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes. InFig. 4 the upper 24 is shown as secured in lasted relation by means of staples 26 driven through the marginal portion of the shoe upper 24 and the lip 14 of the insole 12, the staples being clenched on the -inner surface of the lip. This may be done, for

example, with a side lasting machine of the character illustrated in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,796,451, granted March 1'7, 1931, on an application filed in the name of George Goddu. The toe and heel ends of the shoe may be lasted in any usual or preferred manner.

After the lasting the welt 28 is stitched to the marginal portion of the shoe upper and to the lip 14 of the insole by an inseam 30, as in the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes. This welt should be both light and narrow, and is preferably of a wedge formation, as clearly shown in Fig. 9. The welt may be, for example, of an inch wide and about of an inch thick at its inner edge and thinned down almost to a feather at its outer edge. Preferably the welt is Fig. 7) as there are provided with a shallow groove 29 for the reception of the stitches of the inseam at its inner edge.

The inseaming operation will pull the shoe upper and the welt well down into the angle at the base of the shoulder of the insole, as shown in Fig. 5, so that after the inseam has been trimmed and pounded or rolled, for example with the well-known automatic leveling machine commonly used for leveling the soles of Goodyear welt shoes, the sole receiving surface of the welt 28, together with the edge surface of the-marginal portion of the shoe upper and the inseam produced by the inseam trimming operation, are flat and substantially in the plane of the surface of the insole. This is well shown in Fig. 6. The welt 28, moreover, extends but slightly beyond the shoe upper so that there is little tendency for it to yield under the sole attaching pressure. Plasticfiller 32 '(Fig. '7) is applied sparingly to the shoe bottom, it being desirable to do little more than to fill the "gutter" formed by the lifting of the insole lip 14.

The sole receiving surface of the welt 18 and the edge surfaces of the shoe upper and insole lip (indicated at 31 in Fig. 6) are then roughened and coated with a cellulose derivative cement such as pyroxylin cement which is allowed to dry. The marginal portion of a sole 34 is also roughened, first having been reduced in thickness if desired, and is coated with similar cement which is also allowed to dry. The dry cement on the sole (and if desired on the shoe bottom also) is activated with a suitable solvent or softener. Then the sole 34 is applied to the shoe and the shoe and sole are put under pressure, for example in a cement sole attaching machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent .of the United States No. 1,897,105, granted February 14, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Milton H. Ballard. After-the cement has set to form the permanent sole attachn means the shoe is taken from the pressure applying apparatus and is finished in the usual way.

Since the. sole and welt have not been rolled up about the shoe upper the shoe maybe edge with pyroxylin cement, as illustrated at 42 in Fig. 10, over perhaps of its area, extending from its inner edge and opposite the stitch receiving groove. After the welt has been attached to a shoe, the inseam trimmed, and the bottom of the shoe otherwise prepared for the reception of thesole, the welt is .liftedslightly, as shown in Fig. 8'. and the cement 42 on its upper-engaging surface is activated with cement softener. When the sole is cement-attached, as heretofore described, the sole attaching pressure serves not only to press the sole forcibly against the shoe bottom but also to press the welt against the overlasted margin of the shoe upper so that when the sole attaching pressure is relieved the welt will be firmly cemented to the shoe upper.

Having described the invention, what is claimed as new and desired to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A shoe having a leather welt cemented to the overlasted marginal portion of its upper with a non-vulcanizable cement, and an outsole permanently attached to the welt solely by means of a cellulose derivative cement.

2. A shoe having a welt stitched to the overlasted marginal portion of its upper and to its insole and attached with a cellulose derivative c ment to the overlasted marginal portion of the upper, and a sole attached to the welt solely with a cellulose derivative cement.

3. A shoe having a-welt stitched to the overlasted marginal portion'of its upper and to a rib of its insole and cemented to the overlasted marginal portion of the upper, and an outsole secured by cement to the welt and to the edge surfaces of the upper and the rib of the insole.

4. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to a lipped insole, roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe 'upper between the edge of the last and the lip of the insole, stitching to the upwardly extending edge portion of the upper and to the lip of the insole a welt a portionof the shoe upper engaging surface of which toward the stitch receiving edge is roughened, inseam trimming the shoe thereby removing the surplus portion of the shoe upper, the lip and the inner edge of the welt, cementing the shoe upper to the upper-engaging roughened surface of the welt, and cement attaching an outsole to the welt and the trimmed edge trimmed with a substantially square edge to the sole and the marginal portion of the sole will be substantially flat as it is in a Goodyear welt or a turn shoe- The sole may be edge trimmed closer than that of a Goodyear welt shoe (see no sole attaching stitches to loot out'for.

If desired "the welt 28 may be cemented to the shoe upper thus providing a particularly strong construction and aiding materially in maintaining the desired edge eilect without otherwise affecting the appearance of the shoe. If this is to be done the overlasted portion of the shoe upper is roughened for example after the lasting opera tion, the roughened portion extending periphersurfacesof the shoe bottom adjacent to the welt.

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to a shouldered insole, roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the-shoe upper between the edge of the last and the shoulder of the insole, stitching a welt to the inwardly extending edge portion of the upper and to the lip of the insole, inseam trimming the shoe thereby removing the surplus portion of the shoe upper, the lip and the inner edge of the welt, cementing the upper-engaging surface of the welt to the shoe upper, and cement attaching an outsole to the welt and the surface of the shoe. bot-.

tom adjacent to the welt.

6. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to a lipped insole, roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper between the edge of the last and the lip of the insole, stitching to the'edge portion of the upper and to the lip of the insole a welt a portion of the shoe upper engaging surface of which toward its stitch receiving. edge is roughened and receiving edge is roughened and coated with dry V coated with dry pyroxylin cement, inseam trimming the shoe thereby removing the surplus portion of the shoe upper, the lip and the inner edge of the sole, separating the outer edge of the welt and the shoe upper, and activating the cement on the welt with a suitable softener, pressing the welt against the shoe upper while the cement sets, and cement attaching an outsole to the welt and the trimmed edge surfaces of the shoe bottom adjacent to the welt.

7. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to a lipped insole, roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper between the edge of the last and the lip of the insole and coating the roughened portion with pyroxylin cement, after the cement has dried stitching to the edge portion of the upper and to the lip of the insole a welt a portion of the shoe upper engaging surface of which toward its stitch pyroxylin cement, inseam trimming the shoe and thereby removing the surplus portion of the shoe upper, the lip and the inner edge of the welt, separating the outer edge of the welt from the shoe upper, applying pyroxylin cement to the exposed surface of the welt and the adjacent edge surfaces produced by the trimming operation, applying pyroxylin cement to the marginal portion of the suitably prepared attaching face of a sole, activating the cementby which the sole is to be secured to the welt as well as the cement on the shoe upper and the upper engaging surface of the welt with a suitable softener, applying the sole to the shoe upper and maintaining the shoe and sole under pressure until the cement has set sub ficiently to hold the sole on the shoe bottom.

ISABELLE W. GODDU- Executrirc of the Will of George Goddu, Deceased. 20 

